Vintage-rapport: Barolo 2009- Winestealssd.com

Barolo 2009,

Piemonte

Tom Maresca blev besviken över denna provsmakning 2009 och citerade vinmakarnas misslyckande med att ta itu med hur svår årgången var som en anledning till denna 'dystra' uppvisning.

”Få 2009-tal motiverade optimism om deras livslängd, och de flesta producenter talade om 2009 som en årgång för kortvarigt drickande”

Årgången 2009 av Barolo kommer att konfrontera konsumenter med några hårda sanningar och några hårda viner. Jag smakade över 200 exempel på Barolo 2009 på Nebbiolo Prima i Alba i maj. Majoriteten av viner som erbjuds under evenemangets fem dagar saknade inte bara klassisk Nebbiolo-färg utan visade nästan inga Nebbiolo-aromer eller smaker.

Jag älskar Barolo och jag respekterar och beundrar många av dess producenter för deras engagemang och tydlighet i deras vision. Ändå måste jag säga att i denna årgång saknade många av dem inte bara, det var dyster.

Naturligtvis fanns det undantag: flera producenter - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, för vissa - visade sig vara ganska drickbara Barolo. Några få - särskilt Pio Cesare och Massolino-Vigna Rionda - har till och med tro på vinets åldrande potential. Denna åsikt upprepades ofta av köpmän och köpare, som smakade ett urval av dessa viner en vecka tidigare än journalister, och med producenterna (inte blinda). Men i min smak - och enligt många journalister jag pratade med - verkar de flesta Barolo-tillverkare ha underskattat svårigheten med denna årgång. Få 2009-tal motiverade optimism om deras livslängd, och de flesta producenter talade om 2009 som en årgång för kortvarigt drickande.

Giacomo Conterno, från vingården Aldo Conterno i kommunen Monforte, var en av de mer uttalade producenterna. Han sa: '2009 var en vinodlings årgång. I slutet av augusti var några [Nebbiolo] vinstockar redan nästan mogna, och vissa var helt omogna - nästan 30 dagars skillnad mellan dem. Vad du gjorde åt det bestämde vilken typ av vin du gjorde. ”Den vanligtvis optimistiska Consorzio-bedömningen av skörden i år är mycket bevakad:

'Årgången 2009 kommer också att komma ihåg för sitt oregelbundna mogningsmönster ... När det gäller teknisk mognad kan årgången placeras mellan 2003 och 2007 ... När det gäller fenolmognad ... var data som hittades i druvorna jämförbara med 2003 ... i denna årgång förbättrades inte alltid resultaten genom att försena skörden. '

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Skriven av Tom Maresca